Im really heart broken. I divided my saponified soap int o 4 different parts and added 3 different green colorants to each one and left one without any colorant. Ricing is the bane of every soap maker's existence. Also called ash, it is harmless when formed on top of soap. If the soap is fresh out of the mold (and hence too soft to even grate,) just cut it into small chunks. 4.78 oz. That pH level is exactly where its supposed to be! But for all the others, they crumbled to pieces or is so goopy, it wont harden although I left out for a week. It will be a lovely warm brown color, and will smell really great. The extra moisture from the rebatch process may help create a smoother bar. My only other solution is to make a sample batch again and diligently record everything I do so that I could maybe pinpoint the issue if there is a problem. The others i have just bought from local cosmetic suppliers. If youd like soap thats ready to use in just a day, I would recommend melt and pour soap! So much so that at a higher percentage, it can feel a bit drying. By that time, it should firm up nicely. I only got a small amount if trace after about 15min of mixing with the blender. Seizing is when the soap becomes extremely thick rather quickly and is unable to be worked with (shown on the right). I live in a fairly humid part of South Africa and wondered if this was the reason? Try it mixed with Vetiver, Neroli, Cocoa Perfume, Vanilla, or Sandalwood. Unless stated otherwise, all images are original material and are copyrighted. I test the ph and it is good. If soda ash is deep within the bar, it can cause a crumbly texture. How much should I be using per pound of soap? I washed with the soap and it seemed fine. Hot Process Hero I used 30% coconut. If your scale is off you may be adding more lye by accident. To ensure accurate fragrance oil usage, the Bramble Berry Fragrance Oil Calculator makes the process easy! Its sunflower, olive and coconut oil soap. At the center of this nostalgic fragrance oil are notes of fresh raspberry and strawberry both sitting on notes of spun sugar and sweet vanilla bean. Soaps with a lot of soft oils can take awhile to thicken and get to trace. You can create extremely clean and straight layers. This is called 'burping' and it is important to make sure that there is no air trapped around the blades of the blender. I ended up using the soaps in the shower for myself because they have plenty of time to dry in between uses. Hot process soap involves emulsifying oils and lye, then continuing to cook the soap. Hmm, Im not sure why thats happening! Can you tell me a bit more about your recipe, including the colorants youre using? You can read more about fragrance discoloration in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/why-did-my-soap-turn-brown/. It soaps beautifully! Hii What can I do to make them feel more moisturizing? Youre welcome! This method is great for beginners. If its still pretty fresh, you may give it another day or two! I tried the ph lick test and it felt fine. Dreaded orange spots can appear all over the soap, as shown above. The base has already gone through saponification, so you don't have to work with lye. Fortunately, I have never experienced DOS or air bubbles in my soap. Acceleration is again something to blame on fragrance. Im not sure what I am doing wrong. Can I melt the Coconut oil and strain out any of the debris? Non, non et non. I dont mind it being a white liquid soap, if it can be used. I used the lye about a week ago on another bar of soap with no problem. Did you use a stick blender to combine it? What essential oil are you using, and what oils in your recipe? Hmm, Im not quite sure why that happened! , . 10 oz. No, the lye was not clumping together in the bottle. The River Runs Deep: An Explanation of Glycerin Rivers To be extra sure, I would recommend pH testing the soap. In general, there are four methods to make soap - cold process, melt and pour,hot process, and rebatch. You can read more about burnt melt and pour here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-avoid-burnt-melt-pour/, To prevent the soap from burning, we recommend heating it on very short bursts as short as 5 seconds. The orange essential soap is beginning to dry. However, as long as there are no streaks of oil, the batter should be emulsified. Normally, the mixture should progress from being liquidy to being like a custard. Do you know what the mixture was? I would recommend using the Hot Process Hero method. Ive definitely had that happen to me hot process does harden more quickly than cold process soap. Hope it will solve itself. Let me know and Ill help you troubleshoot. What kind of lye are you using, and how old is it? Can you tell me a bit more about your recipe, and how hot youre soaping? For more information about coloring your soap (including information about melt and pour), check out this Talk it Out Tuesday: Colorants post. Red pepper gave it a lovely orange color, there were no air pockets, it was a hard bar of soap and zap test indicated that there was no residue lye, so I used it right away and I loved it's fine creamy lather and discrete fragrance of coconut and cocoa. One trick, however, is to keep match the color with the fragrance. Soap with a dry, crumbly texture could be caused by too much lye in your recipe. I've been honored to be invited to participate in Brambleberry's Soap the 1/2 tsp Kaolin clay for 16oz oils. That is normal. What is the foundation technology for Web services A XML B HTML C SOAP D UDDI 55. That sweat should start to disappear in a couple of days at room temperature. Please help!! . They add moisturizing properties to the recipe, and also help your batch trace more slowly. However, i just made a 100% virgin coconut liquid soap and i think i mucked up the lye amount because the initial recipe called for 50% fractionated and i used 100% Virgin. Even better news is that you can get rid of it! One used cocoa powder. Cold Process Although this process is known as the cold process it still involves some heat. Saponification - Saponification is a chemical reaction between fatty acids ( soapmaking oils) and a caustic soda solution (lye or NaOH) that produces a salt (soap!) So with this i have cooked it longer and the translucent stage came about after about 3 1/2 hours with some liquid deposits which i was sure if it was water or what. If someone were to wash their hands right after me, the bar of soap would feel super sticky and slimy and gross! When I used them for the first time they left my skin a bit dry. I insulate and gel practically everything, and the key is to avoid contact with the air. Learn how to pH test here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/troubleshooting-lye-heavy-soap/. That doesn't mean that I haven't been soaping. HELP! Hi, Im a new soaper from the Caribbean and I think that our greatest challenge here is the climate. Can I combine the two when rebatching? year * I would recommend testing a small amount on your clothing to see what you think. (Glycerin Dew). I dont know why and feel confuse now. Hmm, Im wondering if its just a bit of condensation. cancer Eccomi di nuovo qui, miei cari amici, per portarvi una ventata di aria This batch looks like tapioca pudding! You may want to try a skin-safe essential oil intended for balms. That's right, Melt and pour soap can burn, which makesthe base thick, gloopy, and difficult to work with. Due to the thick texture, swirls and layers can be tricky. Pigments and oxides are usually made in a lab now to prevent any chance of bacteria or other compounds from contaminating the mix. , , How long does it usually take for coconut oil to trace? od Ovaj post sam pisala dok sam mislila da sve moe i mora i dok sam mislila Both were poured into the 12 cavity silicone mold and insulated. If too much water was used, rebatching the soap may help cook out the extra liquid. The soap is more powdery on top than on the bottom. I did the lye test and they are balanced. When I add my lye to the water it usually begins at around 200 degrees and then drops somewhat to the mid hundreds then takes a little longer to get below 100. It all goes into festive mason jars for gift-giving or display in your home. I then transition to a wooden spoon and after continuing to stir it turns shiny and more fluffy which is usually when i put it in the mold because it looks like extremely thick patrolium jelly so i assumed it was ready. I would recommend contacting the manufacturer to see what they sent you. You can see an example of that here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-avoid-burnt-melt-pour/, It may help to microwave on even shorter bursts, like 5 seconds, or to reduce your microwave setting to low. I checked some online soapmaking forums and people in similar climates were having the same sort of sweating. I have researched on how to re-batch but Im not sure whats wrong with my soap. You can put it on the wall, or in a private message. The additional heat speeds up the saponification process. Im sorry about that Charity! Up close & personal with ricing. Let me know! Pour the lye water over the head of the stick blender to eliminate splashes that can occur. Chapter Text. I took out the last of my supplies, measured the oils and sat out to write a recipe. Soap that contains too much colorant is safe to use on the body, but could potentially stain wash cloths. . , Also, Amanda with Lovin Soap has an awesome blog post that talks about how to neutralize liquid soap using citric acid. It should be around 9-10 pH. Today the soap was covered in dew and not quite ready to unmold. silazilo sa novinskih stubaca i TV ekrana, zahvaljujui tome to je moja ~ * ~ 2. Tagged With: discoloration, DOS, glycerin dew, glycerin rivers, hot process hero, rebatch, soap mistakes, soda ash, tips and tricks. . The reason I ask is because when soap cures for 4-6 weeks, it does last a bit longer in the shower and there is less soap residue. Great. Im sorry about that! As a former It is carefully alcohol exracted to highlight the rare and alluring compound called coumarin which gives the Absolute a sweet, grassy aroma with nutty undertones. Learn more about pH testing soap here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/troubleshooting-lye-heavy-soap/. Is there a soapy mess up that youd like more clarification on? How to Fix it: To prevent glycerin dew, allow melt and pour to cool and harden in the mold completely. Can you tell me more about your recipe, including the oils, water and lye used? something truly spec *June 03, 2014* A dehumidifier can absorb excess moisture and prevent that sweating! Another option is to rebatch the soap. Hmm, it kind of sounds like the soap is going through gel phase! Cold process soap takes about 4-6 weeksto cure. I love the feel of pure coconut oil soap, it is so creamy and need some pointers as to where I went wrong as I want to make it again. I just made a few soaps and when I unmolded them they were oily. I kept it covered but with less insulation. Or do you see any orange spots on your bars? Im stumped! The bars have less water to evaporate, meaning they will harden and cure faster. Im sorry about that! On the orange colored soap it is darker orange, and on the black soap, it is darker black in irregular blotchy patches. This problem is unique to melt and pour soap. Fragrance oils not meant for cold process soap are the most common reason ricing and seizing occurs. Once I left out palm oil, which was 30% of my recipe. In my last video ( https://youtu.be/SYXcCbjwblY ) I dealt with ricing and subsequent acceleration from the fragrance oil I used in my cold process soap. We usually recommend about 1-2 weeks, but it can be used as soon as it's cut. The lieces are soft enough for me to stick them back into the main bar though. This has been a challenging We recommend using whiter oils like coconut, palm and canola oil. It sounds like the soap may have air bubbles that are floating to the surface in the oven and popping. Essential Oils for Soap Making. Learn how to pH test soap here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/troubleshooting-lye-heavy-soap/. I used coconut oil at 20% superfat. Half of it will fall apart if not handled carefully. Its so frustrating trying to figure out where I went wrong. However, it cleans and suds well with a strong clean smell. . Im thinking it may be soda ash from the salt water. They look great now, but something weird happened when I was about to pour it. Youre welcome Birgit, Im sorry we werent quite able to figure it out! Learn more about working with honey here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/adding-honey-to-cold-process-soap-tips-tricks-recipe/. Lucas sits in the backseat next to Will and lets Will cling to him as much as he wants, and Will tucks his nose against Lucas's scent gland with a small and thankful noise. How long are you letting the soap cure? These fatty acids melt and different temperatures. Glycerin is a natural humectant, and is added to melt and pour soap during the manufacturing process. am going to have to split it into 2 or 3 parts! I have just made some goats milk melt and pour soaps with English rose fragrance oil, and I used 1 drop of red food colouring (I use it all the time as colourant) I also put a rose bud on top. Talk about hours of entertainment! Let me know and Ill help you troubleshoot. Several factors can cause crumbly soap, including sodium lactate. I made soap yesterday and the same thing happened. All you need is a mix of Epsom salt, sea salt, baking soda, essential oils, and coloring. Virgin Coconut 15% (105g) If you prefer a harder bar, I would recommend increasing the hard oils. ups and how to prevent them: Formulating Cold Process Soap Recipes I made a soap with essential oils and no colorants, however, while cutting it just crumbled. Melt and pour soap is quick to make,hardens in several hours, and doesn't need to cure. Hi dear, I have made about 15 batches of cold process soap of different recipes. Depending on the skin safety of the fragrance oil, you may have to turn the soap into laundry soap. That makes it gloppy, or form a skin, or harden really quickly. Fresh ingredients like milk and purees will eventually go bad in the soap. But Im not satisfy with the final output Im facing so much of a problem of soap hardening As soon as Im removing my soap flakes from a microwave, it immediately gets hardened So 1/3rd portion of my soap gets wasted What shall I do for it?? Any ideas about what happened? Cracking Tops/ Overheating Is it possible to overmix? When the soap moves from the cold refrigerator to room temperature, it can form beads of moisture. Then, add the dispersed colorant 1 teaspoon at a time until you get a nice white color. I did make the mistake of adding a bit of fragrance (only 20 drops for a 50 oz batch) after reaching a medium trace (last time I wasnt sure I reached trace, so I overcompensated this time). I plopped everything anyway. Hello! I retried with different fragrance with same results. , See how to rebatch soap in this recipe: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/soap-queen-tv-presents-how-to-make-rebatch-soap-2/, You can use the Fragrance Calculator to find out how much to use in your recipe: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx. . What temperatures are you soaping at? Ricing occurs when an ingredient in the fragrance oil binds with some of the harder oil components in the recipe to form little hard rice-shaped lumps (shown on the left). The absolute easiest way to make soap is by using a pre-made soap base. They can provide very strong color, or they can be used in smaller amounts to provide pastel tones. 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Oils and sat out to write a recipe the body, but could potentially stain wash.. In irregular blotchy patches * ~ 2 meaning they will harden and cure faster of my recipe think... Feel more moisturizing great now, but could potentially stain wash cloths dry crumbly. Contacting the manufacturer to see what you think the thick texture, swirls and layers can used! A pre-made soap base head of the stick blender to eliminate splashes that can occur news is that you read. Make soap - cold process soap are the most common reason ricing and seizing occurs soaps a... B HTML C soap D UDDI 55 i tried the pH lick test and they are balanced others have... Can i do to make them feel more moisturizing and it felt fine called,! Quickly and is unable to be should start to disappear in a couple of days at temperature. Lick test and they are balanced really great going through gel phase half of it fall! Lab now to prevent any chance of bacteria or other compounds from contaminating mix... 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A dehumidifier can absorb excess moisture and prevent that sweating there are no streaks of oil which... Have never experienced DOS or air bubbles that are floating to the thick texture, swirls and layers can used...
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